Tea, Spice and everything Nice- the enchanting jungles of God’s own country

Monsoon around the corner, impending rains and a decision to make- our vacation destination! This was tricky given the odd time this was with most states in the country reeling under the monsoon spell. Torn between the North and the South, we finally decided to take the chance and head South. A definite risk as far as torrential outpours were concerned. But we thought, what the heck- we’d see when we got there! So that was that. My husband and I packed and set off to holiday in the mystic jungles of Kerala- Munnar and Thekkady for a good 7 days, to experience verdant tropical greens and the chilly mountain air. From Pune, we decided to fly down to the Kochi International airport. We landed in the wee hours, early morning of the 25th of June. The airport that received an accolade for becoming entirely power neutral in 2015, was very impressive. Having maintained an old-world heritage charm, showcasing traditional Kerala elements in its roofing style and interior, it also offered all modern amenities that were top class and state of the art. A perfect blend of the old and the new. Day 0- June 24th: Kochi to Munnar We had pre-booked a cab service to Munnar. Our driver David happened to be a Tamilian, so we could communicate comfortably with him (Our mother tongue being Tamil). He pointed out that Munnar, a part of the Idukki district in Kerala, actually had a large Tamil-speaking population. Because of its geographical proximity to Tamil Nadu, it saw a lot of migration during the British raj, with Tamilians seeking employment opportunities as workers in the tea estates and cardamom plantations in the 1800s. He himself claimed to be a descendent of a tea plantation worker. So with tidbits of this interesting history interspersed in our conversations, we drove from Kochi to Munnar with rains lashing down. It was still dark out, and we decided to stop on the way for our first cuppa Chai in Nammude Keralam.

Our early morning Chaya in Nammude Keralam

It was a 3.5-hour drive to Munnar, and as we arrived closer, we passed the Neriamangalam forests that mark the beginning of the hills. We also stopped at two major waterfalls- The Cheeyapara falls and the Vaalara falls, gushing away and welcoming us dramatically into the land of the Tea plantations and the lilac Nilaikurinji blossoms.

Cheeyapara Waterfalls

Vaalara Falls

We checked into a resort that we had pre-booked online and had chosen solely based on the enthralling views its cottages offered. The Rivulet– a resort in Chithirapuram, Pallivasal (Threshold of the Church), in Munnar, is located around 13 km away from the main town. The removed context meant much more tranquillity, away from the hustle and bustle of the town area. All the cottages in the resort orient towards a serene rivulet (as the name suggests). The reassuring gurgling of the stream, heartwarming bird calls, the verdant forests and the sinewy mountains were all part of the sensory frame our room offered.

The serene view from our cottage – Rivulet Resort

Rivulet Resort cottages

The enchanting rivulet

The first day, we checked in only in the afternoon, and since both of us had almost close to no sleep owing to the late-night flight, we were exhausted and decided to sleep in. The next morning, we were woken up by the animated whistling of the Malabar Whistling Thrush. My husband mistook it for a human whistling, but I instantly knew it was this skittish, nightingale blue songbird (Having already encountered and fooled by it in Mahabaleshwar). How uplifting it was to wake up to that view and to that playful song!

Listen to the Melodious Malabar Whistling Thrush’s call

The most dominant aspect of the ambient sound here was, without a doubt, the clamour of the cicadas. What usually starts with one buzzing cicada, gradually grows into a cacophony as more join in to harmonize until a crescendo hits. Despite the racket, the sound had the ability to dissolve magically into white noise after some getting used to.

Listen to the Clamour of the Cicadas (Click on the link)

Day 1- 26th June: Munnar So we geared up to explore the untrodden paths of Munnar. David (our driver) had already offered us a list of places in the itinerary. But we were clear from the beginning that we wanted to avoid touristy and hyped-up ‘points’ and wished to explore fewer but good spots that personified the charming character of the place. Munnar has several dams and hydel power plants built by the government that form a primary source of electricity here. Our first spot was one such dam- the scenic Sengulam/ Chengulam dam and lake. We decided to have some fun and opted to go kayaking. Neither of us had kayaked before. Even though there were no stepped rapids, the mere act of rowing in a large lake was an exciting experience. This is definitely a recommended activity since the slower pace of the kayak allows one to soak in the surrounding natural beauty, unlike high-speed activities like speed boating that are quite frankly pointless and overtly noisy and destroy the peace of such idyllic settings.

Sengulam Lake

Kayaking at Sengulam Lake

We also went for a Fish Spa therapy at a small joint within the same premises. The 15-minute session entailed dipping our feet into aquarium tanks while the small Garra rufa fish started nibbling away. The tiny creatures gorge on dead skin and clean the feet in that bid. Initially extremely ticklish, the therapy offered a distinct experience. Although, to be honest, in my research while writing the travelogue, I stumbled upon an article by Peta that states that Fish pedicures are actually deemed cruel since the fish are intentionally starved and left with no other choice other than to eat the dead skin that is offered to them which otherwise is not their first preference. I wish I had read the article before we went for the experience. Anyway, will remember to neither opt for a fish spa again nor recommend it (tourists can use their own discretion).

Fish Spa Therapy (Was a different experience but not recommended- reports on fish cruelty emerge)

After the rejuvenating Sengulam, we proceeded to a Spice plantation (one of the many in and around the place) for a guided tour. The plantation had several tour guides stationed to take tourists around. Our guide, who was comfortable with Hindi and English communication, showed us around the farm and explained to us the healing effects of various ayurvedic plants and spices. The plantation, however, did not invoke the senses to the degree one would expect. It was somewhat manicured and was converted into a demo zone to just orient tourists and coax them into buying products from the retail store at the end of the tour. If one could get a chance to visit a private plantation that was wilder and unmanicured, that would be more recommended. Anyway, we did end up buying some oils, spices and natural cosmetic products from the retail outlet at the end. After all, we did not want to leave the place without its speciality- the aromatic spices.

Ayurvedic Plants at the Spice Plantation

The drive through the winding roads of Munnar would perpetually offer fresh green views of an expanse of landscaped tea plantations. With around 36 tea estates in the region, whenever we would drive past a tea factory a peculiarly invigorating aroma of fired tea would waft through the air and fill our senses – what an olfactory treat to the Tea Connoisseur! We are even guilty of having taken some clichéd pictures posing with the tea plantations as the backdrop. But one cannot really go without adding this par’tea’cular memory in the Munnar album, can they!

The mandatory Tea Plantation pictures

After the eventful day amidst natural beauty, we decided to immerse ourselves in the cultural spirit of the place. We booked tickets to a Kathakali Fusion dance show and a Kalaripayattu Martial Art performance. The shows were hosted by the Punarjani traditional village and the tickets cost 500/- INR per person. The theatre spaces for the shows were slightly crude and lacked finishing. Given this, my expectations from the performances were not too high. To my utter surprise, the dancers broke our conjecture and performed with finesse, confidence and grace. The fusion dance was a combination of traditional dance forms like Kathakali, Theyyam, Bharatnatyam, and Mohiniattam wherein the dancers performed individually on separate songs and then came together in the end to finish on a high note. The show was very engaging and catered to the masses with catchy songs inserted for a foot-tapping experience. Even though the performance was no doubt delightful, I for one would have preferred a more purist, uncorrupt interpretation of the dance forms that highlighted their distinct styles better and that paid a more deserving ode to the heritage value of these dying art forms. Well, we definitely did receive a chance later in our trip to redeem this wish of ours.

The Kathakali Performance at Punarjani

The next performance was the electrifying Kalaripayattu Martial Arts demonstration. The oldest surviving Indian martial art form originating at least 3000 years back, Kalari is a combination of combative techniques with the use of different kinds of weaponry wherein the fighters showcase extreme mind and body coordination on the battlefield. The performance was held in a circular amphitheatre similar to the format of the colosseum, only on a much smaller scale. Again, the set-up was fairly rudimentary, but the act was phenomenal. Hands-down, one of the most engaging performances I have seen so far. The session comprised demonstrations of combat and defence techniques using bare hands, different swords, wooden sticks etc. Around 10 Kalari artists performed in turns and they were extremely precise, lithe, fierce and showcased sharp reflexes. The exceptional quality of the demonstration certainly pointed out to years of rigorous training and disciplined regimens. The entire act had us sitting on the edge of our seats with sparks literally flying off with the impact of striking swords. The highlights of the performance were definitely the acts that involved the flexible, unpredictable belt sword and the ones that included fire- Rapid swirling fire sticks and the jumping across hoops of fire. The session made me deeply wonder- how such a seasoned art form from our country had not yet gained international traction and hadn’t yet inspired world-class animation movies (Definitely hope to see a movie as big as Kung-Fu Panda but with a Kalari artist as an inspiration). All in all, a highly recommended experience for visitors.

The hair-raising Kallaripayattu performances

Day 2- 27th June : Munnar On the second day in Munnar, we decided to go with David’s plan of visiting the Madupetty Dam and sites that were in that direction. The first stop was the Munnar Floriculture Center, popularly known as the Munnar Rose garden. The garden was designed in contours with descending steps that housed hundreds of rare varieties of flowering plants, herbal species and several varieties of succulents and cacti. Needless to say, the flower garden had attracted a lot of couples getting photographed in corny poses with “Instagram-worthy backdrops” for #couplegoals. Overall, a pleasant place to be, but nothing too extraordinary in terms of the experience.

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Our next stop was Carmelgiri Botanical gardens. Even though we had already been to a place with a lot of plant species in the Rose garden, I was still keen on visiting the Botanical garden and was curious to see how the place was differently organized. Plus it was a pleasant day and being surrounded by plants was always welcome. The garden was not too large. A walking path was designed with assorted plant species housed within fenced areas. The highlight was the interesting varieties of Cacti, many of which we had not seen before. The place could definitely have been maintained better though. There was also a relatively large retail outlet at the end of the walk where one could buy handicrafts, Knick knacks, souvenirs, spices, tea, etc.

Cacti varieties at Carmelgiri Botanical Garden

We wanted to buy tea from an authentic store, so David took us to the Ripple Tea outlet (of the Kanan Devan Hill Plantation– KDHP) attached to the Mattupetty Tea factory. While the factory was closed, we did shop at the retail outlet for some Milk Tea and Green Tea packets for ourselves and our family. We also sipped on some steaming, aromatic cups of cardamom chai. The location of the factory was beautiful and we took out time to roam around and admire the picturesque tea plantations. In my background reading, I happened to browse through the KDHP website and discovered some charming heritage tea bungalows that are being managed by the company and are let out as lodges to tourists. In hindsight, I really wished that we had known about these colonial bungalows and that we had booked our stay at least for a night for a Victorian-era- time travel experience.

The enchanting Tea Plantation views

Our next stop was the popular- Mattupetty dam. An interesting aside is that the village got its name because of an Indo-Swiss collaborative livestock project that was set up here in 1963. There are as many as 400 high-quality cows (Mattu in Tamil) that are reared here. The project area spreads over 191 hectares and hearsay is that the precinct is a breathtaking mini Switzerland with sprawling grasslands dotted with cows. But unfortunately, the premises have not been accessible to the public since a few years. However, we did spot several Mattus grazing on the grass-carpeted banks of the Mattupetty lake, as we floated over its waters pedalling away on a pedal boat ride we opted for. This was also an activity we thoroughly enjoyed. The context was beautiful, and boating in the pristine, crystal clear lake with the cowbells tinkling away melodiously in the background was absolutely heavenly. However, the only drawback was that there was a designated zone for pedal boating and we were not permitted to venture outside of it.

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On the other hand, later that day we happened to go to Kundala Lake and instantly regretted not visiting it before Mattupetty. This lake was much more scenic than the former lake and much less crowded. There was no boundary set for the boating. We definitely recommend that visitors choose Kundala lake for the boating activity. Ah well, there was no point in being rueful about the missed opportunity. We decided to soak in the blissful surroundings, sat on the banks of the lake, dipped our feet in the icy cold waters and instantly felt our tiredness melt away. For my husband, the place was strongly reminiscent of the Swiss Alps that he had the fortune of visiting when he was in Paris. Such was the beauty of that place, with towering Eucalyptus jungles around filling the air with a heady scent, the luxuriant meadows and hills, and the valley that contained glistening waters that were reposeful. In that enchanting moment, we were truly swept off of our feet.

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Before Kundala lake, we also visited the highest point in Munnar which lies on the Kerala- Tamil Nadu border- Top Station that is 1700 m above Mean Sea Level. The viewing point was a 15-minute walk away from the car parking. Because of the altitude, it was extremely windy and chilly. The actual point was a spot that opened out views of the Theni valleys in Tamil Nadu. The point was alright and actually did not match up to the hype. One of the high points was a vibrant rainbow that popped up amidst the momentary light drizzling and the bright sun overlap. We had hot Maggi at one of the food stalls and a cup of cardamom tea to warm ourselves.

Where are the pots of Gold? The rainbow at Top Station

Day 3- 28th June: Munnar With the sight-seeing and aspects of culture covered, the one thing that remained on our to-do list was- Adventure. We had kept the last day in Munnar reserved for a Jungle Safari in the National Park. There was Eravikulam National Park which was more popular among tourists and known for the Nilgiri Tahr spottings. However, we decided to skip that and visit the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, where we found out that guided treks through the forest were available. It was a 2.5-hour drive and we set off after breakfast. The drive was scenic and en route to Chinnar, we spotted a herd of wild elephants including a baby. All of them were grazing placidly on a patch of grassland.

A herd of wild elephants grazing in the grasslands of Munnar

Along the way, we passed large areas of reserved sandalwood forests within which we spotted herds of deer sprinting around. We also sighted wild gaurs (Bisons) and boars along the way. We reached Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary at around 12 noon and immediately enquired about the treks. Out of the two available options- The 3 Km trek to the prehistoric Dolmens monolithic structures v/s the 6 Km trek to the Thoovanam Waterfalls, we picked the latter. We were assigned a forest ranger for accompanying us on the trek. Our guide, Shaktiyil was a man of few words. He guided us whilst walking nonchalantly and effortlessly, in khaki greens and wearing nothing but a pair of thin Hawaiian sandals for footwear, that too in heavily undulating terrain. We followed diligently, keeping our eyes and ears open for any swift movements in the bushes around. Walking through the wilderness was an adventure in itself. The forest officials had already warned us that spotting larger beasts was rare, and we were fine with that. We were happy enough to be able to spot a variety of butterflies, catch some interesting bird calls, spot dungs of different kinds and just be able to lose ourselves in the experience of the trek. The walk was both exhausting and refreshing at the same time. We crossed several water bodies and rivulets, terrains that had large boulders and narrow pathways flanked by dense foliage. The destination was the majestic Thoovanam waterfall that was cascading with tremendous force and spreading cool water mist around. We clambered up on a large rock near the falls and sat there, bathing in the beauty of the falls as the tiredness in our bodies evaporated. With our hearts filled and content with the experience, we headed back to the base camp slowly and steadily, feeling somewhat accomplished!

The Trek through Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

The Thoovanam Waterfalls

On our way back, we passed Maraiyoor town where we had hot paruppu vadais (dal vadas), bread bondas and hot tea. it was pouring at the time. We were fortunate it wasn’t raining during our trek. We still had time to see one more place and so decided to delve into the history of Munnar- the Tata Tea museum was the perfect place that would take us back in time to understand how Munnar developed as a Tea country.

The Tata Tea Museum (Now known as the KDHP- Kannan Devan Hills Plantation Company Museum) was housed in a colonial bungalow with a new extension. A documentary projected for the tourists gave insight into the inception and history of the tea plantations in Munnar. There was also a demonstration of the Tea making process with a CTC machine that showcased the process right from feeding of the fresh tea leaves to the cutting, oxidation, powdering and sorting of the tea into various grades. There was also a walkthrough of the history of the tea plantations since the colonial era through information plaques, a display of old office items like old typewriters, china urns, old antique wooden furniture, etc. As much as we owe the British for establishing Tea plantations, there were some dark facets of the history that were revealed. Apparently, the Britishers had minted a unique currency for the tea estate to pay the Indian workers. This was to ensure that the workers did not leave the estate and would then be left with no other option but to serve that particular plantation since the currency was redundant outside. The Museum had very interesting information and did transport us back to the halcyon era, but the upkeep and infrastructure could definitely have been much better. For example, the items were displayed in the open and were gathering dust. Proper display cases with adequate lighting and signages would elevate the experience and preserve the artefacts for a much longer time. I really hope to see the Museum undergoing an upgrade and renovation in the future. There was also a tea retail outlet and a tasting counter. We treated ourselves to some hot cups of tea, yet again!

The Tata Tea Museum, Munnar

Old objects displayed in the Museum

Day 4- 29th June: Thekkady

It was time to bid goodbye to the Tea country and set off for the Land of Spices- Thekkady. We checked out of the Rivulet resort after the scrumptious breakfast spread and began the 3-hour drive. Amidst engorged clouds, misty roads and intermittent showers, we drove through winding roads, feeling slightly nauseous, yet eagerly awaiting the new experiences in store. Our resort in Thekkady, Cardamom County was close to the main town. We checked in at around 1 PM in the afternoon. The resort was very tastefully designed and was engulfed in greens. The structures and cottages reflected a traditional Kerala influence yet were built with contemporary needs in mind. Having spoken to the manager of the resort, we found out that the campus was around 22 years old. The resort had aged beautifully and gracefully with the greens taking over and enveloping the structures to make the place truly one with Nature. The cottages were built on a slope and were accessed by stepped pathways flanked by trees and creepers of all kinds. Each cottage had a private verandah that overlooked the central open space of the resort that housed the swimming pool. The columns, eaves of the roof, and retaining walls, all were wrapped in a mystique green ivy. The place looked like it emerged from the ground, from mother nature. Our room was the Periyar cottage and it turned out to our utmost liking. Well, I will write a separate piece on the resort and its design itself. But let’s move on to reading about the rest of our trip.

The Cardamom County resort, Thekkady

After we freshened up, we had lunch in the resort restaurant- All Spice. We ordered parothas and kurma. They were made to perfection and tasted authentic. We decided to explore around post lunch. David had suggested we go to the Elephant park nearby for a ride. So we went to a park called Elephant Camp and booked a 30-minute Elephant Ride. We had never ridden an elephant back before and the experience was truly one of a kind. The park had around 20 elephants kept in sheds where they were being fed and taken care of. The premises looked fairly well kept and the pachyderms seemed to be well cared for by Mahouts. Our tusker was a 15-year-old juvenile, Ashogi. She was a complete cutie and was very cooperative throughout as the Mahout directed her with some verbal commands in Malayalam. The ride was through a plantation grove within the campus. We even spotted some civets and monkeys. Ashogi, trotting along animatedly, with us on her back, was taking chomping breaks in-between, as she munched happily on twigs and banana leaves that the mahout flung toward her from time to time. After the ride we took pictures with the gentle giant as she blessed us, touching her trunk tenderly to our heads.

Ashogi, the 15-year-old Tusker, giving us a joy ride.

The gentle giant

Post our little adventure, we opted to see another Kathakali show within the same precinct, this time a more purist version of it. The one-hour programme comprised the dancers demonstrating various body movements in Kathakali including Facial muscle movements, fast-paced eye movements, hand gestures and an expressive enactment of the Navarasas (The 9 emotions). A performance followed with live Carnatic vocals and percussion instruments (Mrudangam and Chenda) set a rhythmic base for a spellbinding performance. This version of the dance was more untainted and raw, and a recommended watch.

The Kathakali Show at Elephant Camp

With the Artists (both male)

Day 5- 30th June: Thekkady Thekkady is the land of jungles, elephants and adventure. A better time to visit the place would be early summers or the onset of winters. When we were there, it had already begun raining and hence difficult to do a lot of outdoor activities. We wanted to go on the jungle trek but unfortunately, since we weren’t wearing the appropriate shoes, we were not allowed to undertake any jungle activities. The reason being, monstrous leeches during the season that could suck the life out of you without you even realizing it. Exaggeration much? Well, nevertheless we did go for a boat ride across the Periyar river on a rainy day. With dense forests on either side of the bank, with a pair of binoculars, we happened to spot some birds and animals. Cormorants (water birds), herds of stags and a mongoose. Not much luck there, but the ride was beautiful, the water filled to the brim and verdant greens all around. Apparently, there are around 40 tigers in the Periyar forests, but the season was not apt for spotting. There was a small interpretation center at the end of the ride where select memorabilia and books on the Periyar reserve were being sold. An old forest ranger who was working in the souvenir shop struck up a conversation and presented his Malayalam poems on Nature and existentialism, that he recited musically. Tiny episodes that become warm memories.

Boating in the Periyar (Image source: keralaindiavacation)

Day 6- 1st July: Thekkady The next day we spent entirely in the resort owing to heavy rains. We made use of the Ayura wellness center housed within the premises and booked ourselves for an Abhyangam massage in the spa. The service was very good and the session was rejuvenating. In the evening, we explored the markets of Kumily town in Thekkady and bought bags of fresh banana and jackfruit chips for friends and family. Day 7- 2nd July: Back to Pune Our journey had almost come to an end and it was time to pack our bags and head back to Pune. We drove back to the Kochi International Airport and took the evening flight to Pune and reached at around 10 PM at night. It was time to get back to reality, but with renewed energy. The Kerala trip was a mixture of some off-beat, some touristy but mostly refreshing experiences. A visit to Munnar and Thekkady is as close to Mother Nature’s lap as you can get. Being there is like being tightly embraced with rich sights, smells and sounds that elevate your senses and make you recalibrate your pace and place in the vastness of the elements of nature. It was nothing short of a humbling encounter.